18th-Century Gentleman's Fashion

Below are some examples of 18th-century hunting dress. The images may take a few minutes to load, so while you wait here are a few basic tips for putting together your clothing:

Breeches

The Eagle's View waistcoat and breeches patterns are a good starting point for making your small clothes. These patterns are very easy to use and, unlike many patterns, the clothing made from them fits well using the sizes given as a guide. Note that the waistcoat tends to have a bit of a "hump" between the shoulders which may need to be pinched in and trimmed out of both the lining and body before sewing it up.

The Eagle's View breeches are a little snug in the groin area (see the NWTA web page for hints on remedying this minor fault) and tends to be about 2" too short in the knee, which is easily fixed by cutting across the pattern and adding two inches in length to the center of the thigh. As most hunting is done in the fall and winter months, wool is the best material for coats, waistcoats and breeches. Buckskin breeches are also a good choice. Several good sources for period-correct fabrics can be found through these links.

Coats

Most commercially-available patterns are for military and/or formal dress coats which are not designed to be buttoned up and therefore are not appropriate for "field" use. A military coat pattern can be modified by adding a few inches to the front and straighten the curve slightly, but this is best done by someone with some sewing experience. Finished coats similar to that worn by Mr. Poyntz (below) can be had from several of the vendors found in the links section. In particular, see Jas. Townsend and Son, Inc. and Bradley Company of the Fox.

The gray coat worn by Mr. Andrews (below) is very similar to the double-breasted Jacket offered by Kannik's Korner, but it needs to have some length added to the body and a collar attached at the neck. The collarless, sleeveless coat worn by Mr. Poyntz is very similar to the waistcoat pattern offered by J. P. Ryan.

We have been very pleased with the service we have received from ìThe Emporium,î who offer a very broad selection of period-correct patterns.

Shoes

Most commercially-available patterns are for military and/or formal dress coats which are not designed to be buttoned

Two Bowles and Carver woodcut illustrations (c. 1760-1780).

These sportsmen wear a round hat with a broad brim, a full length, skirted coat with collar and cuffs, breeches and spatterdashes. The coats and waistcoats are apparently trimmed with a lace binding. The top figure wears both a waistbelt (supporting a game bag on the left hip?) and a powder horn. The bottom figure wears a hunting pouch or game bag suspended by a thin shoulder strap on his left hip (he may also have a waistbelt).

Note the dogs! A good hunting dog is essential for successfully flushing birds -- though owning and training a hunting dog is a HUGE commitment in both time and money.

Detail from the Thomas Gainsborough painting Mr. and Mrs. Andrews (c. 1748-50).

Mr. Andrews wears a short gray, double-breasted jacket with a green collar, a matching gray untrimmed waistcoat, black (or navy blue) breeches and white thread stockings. His hat is a silver-laced tricorn. He has kidskin gloves and wears a mesh game bag on a leather belt around his waist.

Again, note the dog complete with leather collar with a brass plate I.D. tag.

The Third Duke of Richmond out Shooting with his Servant Johann Zoffany (c. 1765).

Charles Lennox, third Duke of Richmond is wearing a matching outfit in brown, black canvas spatterdashes or half-gaiters, and an oddly-shaped gold-trimmed, tri-cornered hat. Over the right shoulder he wears (presumably) a hunting pouch and horn on a leather strap, and over the other hangs a large mesh game bag. Note the servant's dress; blue velvet coat trimmed in red, red waistcoat and buckskin breeches.

Note that the dog, a small, tri-colored spaniel, has his tail docked -- still a common practice for this breed today.

William Poyntz Thomas Gainsborough (c. 1762).

Mr. Poyntz is wearing a drab-colored collar- and cuff-less coat with a tan waistcoat and breeches. He has black half-gaiters and a jockey-style black cap trimmed with a black bow at the back. The leather strap over his left shoulder holds a game bag or hunting pouch (what appears to be a hunting pouch here is actually part of the log he leans against).

Another Spaniel!

Fleetwood Hezketh Joseph Wright of Derby (1769)

Mr. Hezketh wears a beautiful, full skirted, collarless madder red coat. The cuffs are unusually large for this period, as is the length of his finely laced dark velvet waistcoat. He also wears matching madder breeches, a plain, black cocked hat (worn at a jauntily rakish angle), and black canvas half gaiters. In his pocket is a pressed horn flask with what appears to be a short, brass charging spout. His fine fowler rests against the tree behind him ñ the triggerguard is barely visible below his left knee.

Detail from James and Mary Shuttleworth... Joseph Wright of Derby (1764)

Mr. Shuttleworth has a gorgeous long scarlet waistcoat under a heavy, blue velvet coat that has both a collar and cuffs and brass (gold?) buttons. His button holes are trimmed with gold thread. He also wears buckskin breeches and ribbed woolen stockings. His heavy black hat is uncocked but turns up a bit at the brim. Over his right shoulder is a brown leather belt with a plain buckle, probably holding his hunting pouch.

Very stylish!

Note that this outfit is very similar to the Duke of Richmond's servant (above) and is almost identical to the Markeaton Hunt livery (c. 1762-63) worn by a fox-hunt club in Wright's home town of Derby.