Selecting a Dress Shirt (Part 1)

Although selecting a dress shirt can be a relatively simple task, there are still a number of options to consider when making your choice. This week we will discuss dress shirt sizing and fabrics. Next week’s column will focus on collar styles, cuff styles, colors and patterns.

Most dress shirts are sized using a collar and sleeve measurement. For example, size “16/33” indicates a 16-inch collar and a 33-inch sleeve length. To determine your proper collar size, measure around your neck, keeping two fingers between the measuring tape and your neck. To measure sleeve length, measure the distance from where your spine meets the base of your neck to your shoulder seam. Then, with your elbow slightly bent, measure from shoulder seam to wrist. The sum of these two numbers is your sleeve length.

Dress shirts are made in three basic fits. Regular fit is cut generously for maximum comfort. Big & Tall shirts are tailored with 1 ¾” of additional length. Trim Fit garments are tapered in the chest and waist a small amount to accommodate a more athletic build.

Once you have determined your proper size and fit, you can turn your attention to choosing a fabric. We strongly recommend 100% cotton dress shirts. Cotton breathes, while polyester does not. Cotton shirts will also provide greater comfort than blends. If you are not adept with an iron, and don’t wish to incur the expense of professional laundering, “non-iron” 100% cotton dress shirts are now available. These shirts are treated with a patented formula allowing them to remain virtually without wrinkles while wearing. Caring for Non-Iron dress shirts is very simple. They can be washed and dried at home without the need for an iron.

There are a variety of cotton fabrics to choose from: · 100’s two-ply broadcloth is a luxury fabric with a silky feel. It is very durable due to its two-ply thread (two individual threads are twisted together) and close weave. · 80’s pinpoint oxford is another excellent two-ply fabric. It is also extremely durable, but has more texture (a weightier look) than a broadcloth fabric. · Royal Oxford cloth possesses the durability of pinpoint oxford with more texture (in colored Royal Oxford fabric, you can see a small amount of white in the weave). · 50’s broadcloth, woven of single-ply thread, is a lightweight and durable cotton fabric at a great value.

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