The Sportcoat (Part 2)

Last week, our column was focused on a discussion of sportcoat fabrics, patterns and colors. This week we will address the topic of selecting sportcoats that best match your style of dress and the rest of your wardrobe.

The sportcoat family has expanded considerably in the past several decades. You now have a broader range of alternatives. This expansion has also made the decision process more complicated. In addition to the traditional sportcoat (constructed similarly to a suit jacket), casual constructions are now also available.

Shirt jackets, befitting their name, are made from sportcoat fabrics, but are made more like an oversized shirt than a jacket. You'll find little or no lining, button cuffs and shirt style collars. Shirt jackets are more casual in style and work especially well with fine gauge knit polos and mock-turtle styles.

Soft sportcoats bridge the gap between shirt jackets and traditional sportcoats. They are fairly unconstructed, typically with shirt style button cuffs and generally have more traditional lapels. The patch style pockets can also be found on many updated traditional sportcoats. Soft sportcoats are considered to be dressier than shirt jackets but can still be worn with fine gauge knits and woven dress shirts. You can also choose to dress a soft sportcoat up with a shirt and tie.

If the traditional sportcoat is more to your liking, there are several things to consider when making your selection. Sportcoats are available in two and three button models. Your choice should reflect both your personal taste and your body type. Three button models tend to create a longer line, which is helpful if you are short in stature. However, this also tends to accentuate the height of a taller man. Stick with two or three button models, since other models tend to go in and out of style rather quickly.

Sportcoats are available in vented and unvented models. (A vent is a slit in a garment in the lower portion of the seam). Vented sportcoats are either side vented (most popular in Europe) or single vented in the back, which is a traditionally more American design. Ventless jackets have become more popular in the past several years. They are the most flattering model, but less practical, as it can be more difficult to access your trouser pockets.

You will also need to select a pocket style. Patch pockets (sewn onto the garment so the entire pocket is visible) add a more casual feel to the sportcoat. Flap pockets or breast welt pockets (the standard suit pocket) are more formal.

Finally, we would like to add a word about sizing. Sportcoats should be cut a bit fuller than a suit jacket to allow room for a sweater to be worn under the jacket. Sportcoats are sized similar to suits, with short, regular, long and extra-long fits. As a rule of thumb, short sizes will work for men 5'7" and under. Regular sizes are generally appropriate for men between 5'8" and 6'. If you are between 6' and 6'3", you will want to select a long, while extra-long will generally work for those over 6'3".